Moving to the Pinot Noirs, the 2017 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley is the appellation release from Hobbs, and it's brought up all in French oak. Black raspberries, bouquet garni, crushed flowers, and honeyed strawberry notes all emerge from this beautifully polished, medium-bodied, seamless effort. With lots of upfront fruit, plenty of underlying depth and structure, and a great finish, it's a winner. Drink it over the coming decade.

Chiseled, ripe and flavorful, featuring concentrated kirsch, wild plum and raspberry confit notes that mesh easily. Fruity midpalate, with a finish of slate and pepper hints, supported by firm tannins. Drink now through 2024. 7,235 cases made.

The 2017 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley) is bright, floral and nicely lifted, with plenty of red cherry pie and berry character. Medium in body and wiry - perhaps because of its recent bottling - the 2017 has plenty to recommend it. This is a gorgeous wine in its peer group.